Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.